160 miles north of Rarotonga
and only 40 minutes by air, the sand, palm and seascape of Aitutakis
lagoon is one of the Cook Islands most beautiful physical
features.
From an aircraft Aitutaki appears gradually from the dark blue
ocean water as a turquoise triangle bordered by a ruffle of
white where the Pacific swells have been turned to foam by its
reef. Then the motu (small islands) come into sight, a long
line of narrow islands, some only a few metres across, others
which taper away into the distance. The motu are crowded with
coconut palms which jostle each other at the shores and crane
their long necks out over the sand towards the shimmering water.
The sand which surrounds the motu is sugar white.
It would be possible to place the entire island of Rarotonga
within Aitutakis lagoon.
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Aitutaki Lagoon from the Air |
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Aitutakians are acknowledged
as the entertainers of the Cook Islands, with a particular skill
in the making and playing of the pate - the slit drums which
accompany traditional dancing.
The lagoon is many things to Aitutakians: source of legends,
a vast fish tank which feeds the island and a place where tourists
are taken to picnic on its motu and snorkel among its shoals.
Loveliest of the motu is Tapuaetai, or One-Foot Island, which
is surrounded by glassy water and pure white sand.
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Aitutaki
from the air |
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Aitutaki's lagoon is 20 kilometres
across at its widest point. From 1951 until 1960 the lagoon
was one link in a chain of island-hopping flights taken by TEAL
Shorts Solent flying boats plying the famous 'Coral Route'.
Travel on the Coral Route was expensive during a period when
most international passengers still went by sea, and many of
the world's rich and famous stepped off onto the sands of Akaiami.
Flying was also exhilarating, as the 34-ton Solents took a minute
and a half to break free of the water on takeoff, and often
flew only 1,000 feet above the sea.
Today Air Rarotonga flies modern jet-prop Saab 340 aircraft
from Rarotonga several times a day, landing and taking off from
the same runway built by the Americans and Aitutakians during
the Pacific war. |
| Aituaki's blue
lagoon |
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One Foot Island |
Visitors to Aitutaki still visit
Akaiami where there is a glimpse of the concrete jetty, now
derelict, extending into the still water of the lagoon. All
that now remains of a romantic era in Pacific aviation.
Many take the ever popular Aitutaki Day Tour. For those who
choose a longer stay, the island now boasts several fine resorts
and a range of other accommodation from self-catering bungalows
to budget guest houses. |

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